Summer in Hokkaido feels like stepping into another Japan. While the rest of the country bakes in heavy heat, this northern island stays cool and inviting. Crisp evenings, mountain breezes, and skies that open into endless blue make the season a pleasure to explore. Yet it is not just the weather that makes Hokkaido shine in the warm months. This is a time when traditions burst to life, when local markets brim with flavors of the sea, and when every road seems to lead to a story.
About an hour and a half from Sapporo, the hot spring town of Noboribetsu is famous for its dramatic geothermal landscape. At its heart lies Jigokudani, or Hell Valley, where steam rises from the ground and the air smells faintly of minerals. In late August, the valley becomes the stage for the Noboribetsu Jigoku Matsuri, a festival dedicated to the guardian deity Yukijin. This is no ordinary event. Towering fireworks explode into the night, mimicking volcanic eruptions, while performers in demon masks dance through the steam. Locals see it as both a celebration and a prayer for happiness, a tradition carried forward through generations.
If Noboribetsu is fire, Furano in central Hokkaido is color and laughter. Known for its lavender fields, Furano hosts the Heso Matsuri every July. The festival’s name comes from the town’s location at the center of the island, the “belly button” of Hokkaido. More than 4,000 participants paint faces on their stomachs and dance through the streets, each design unique. The painted belly becomes the mouth, with the dancer’s chin forming the nose. Visitors are welcome to join in, adding their own painted bellies to the joyful procession.
Summer is also the peak season for uni, or sea urchin, and Hokkaido’s waters produce some of the best in the world. The prized Ezo Bafun Uni has a dense sweetness and is found only here. Kita Murasaki Uni is larger and creamier, often served fresh at local markets. In Shakotan, west of Sapporo, visitors can enjoy uni that is caught in the morning and served the same day.
Crab is another Hokkaido treasure. Tarabagani, or king crab, is known for its size and rich flavor, while Kegani, the horsehair crab, offers tender meat and a rich crab miso. Whether boiled, grilled, or raw, crab here tastes like the ocean itself.
Hokkaido’s story is also shaped by the Ainu, its indigenous people. Their culture sees every element of nature as alive with spirit. At the Nibutani Ainu Museum and the Upopoy National Ainu Museum, visitors can see intricate wood carvings, textiles, and traditional performances that keep this heritage alive.
Travel in Hokkaido often means long drives, and along those routes are Michi-no-Eki, or roadside stations. These are more than rest stops. Each one offers local produce, snacks, and souvenirs. Some, like the Akkeshi Gourmet Terminal CONCHIGLIE, specialize in seafood. Others, such as Roadside Station 230 in Rusutsu, are surrounded by farmland and mountains, offering a glimpse of rural life.
From watching fireworks light up a volcanic valley to tasting uni straight from the sea, summer in Hokkaido is a season that stays with you. It is the laughter in the streets of Furano, the warmth of a hot spring night in Noboribetsu, and the quiet beauty of a mountain road at dusk.
